Just like plants need water, our skin needs serums too. Wilson once said “the beauty of a serum is that most of the liquid is removed, so what remains is a high concentration of active ingredients.” So is serum really necessary? Let’s find out through the article below.
What are serums?
Definition of serum There are many, but the most general for readers to understand is a formula with active ingredients that are concentrated and easily penetrate deep into our skin.
When we incorporate serums into our routine skin care routine, we will clearly feel the positive change in our skin. Depending on whether your goal is moisturizing, whitening, revitalizing or anti-aging, each product will have a formula with its own active ingredient to meet.
Serum classification
1. By feature
a) Moisturizing Serum
This serum group often contains common moisturizing ingredients such as:
Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
HA is a type of sugar available in the body, which holds water to help the skin stay hydrated and plump. However, the body does not always have enough HA, but over time, the body will produce less and less, which explains why as we age, our skin becomes drier, and more susceptible to aging.
The strong moisturizing ability of HA is very strong, can hold up to 1000 times its own weight, so hyaluronic acid helps increase firmness, preventing the formation of wrinkles and crow’s feet. HA in serum is usually in the form of sodium hyaluronate salt and is present in many different sizes such as:
- Nano HA (Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid): : has extremely small molecular size, penetrates and moisturizes the deepest cell layer of the skin.
- Binding HA (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate): includes HA with the ability to bind, help increase elasticity, maintain and retain moisture on the skin longer.
- Super HA (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate): has the ability to hold millions of water molecules, penetrate deeply and retain water for the skin.
- 3D HA (Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer): is a stereoscopic HA network that protects the skin, increases its ability to retain water and supports the layers of the skin, keeping the skin moist for a long time.
Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids (fats) found in high concentrations about 50% in the top layers of the skin, they help form the protective barrier and maintain the skin moisturized. So it’s no surprise that ceramides play an important role in fighting harmful environmental aggressors and determining how your skin looks.
Without the proper ratio of ceramides, the skin barrier can be damaged, leading to dryness, itching, and irritation.
Glycerin
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a natural compound derived from vegetable oils or animal fats. It is a clear, colorless, odorless and sweet-tasting liquid. Glycerin is a humectant, which helps pull water from the air or on the surface into deeper layers.
b) Whitening serum
Common whitening agents commonly found in products skin whitening serum as:
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a vitamin that our bodies cannot synthesize on its own, instead the only way to provide it is through supplements or your diet such as citrus fruits, floating berries. Famous for ingredients rich in vitamin C.
With the ability to inhibit the production of melanin, vitamin C helps to fade dark spots, brown spots, evens out skin tone and looks more radiant. While you can certainly get enough vitamin C from your diet, it’s 20 times more potent for our skin to absorb it through topical application than from just eating it.
In cosmetics, vitamin C exists in many different forms such as:
- Ascorbic acid (AA, LAA).
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP).
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP).
- Ascorbyl palmitate (AA-PAL).
- Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (VC-IP).
- Ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G).
- Ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate (APPS).
- 3-o-ethyl ascorbate (EAC).
Vitamin B3
B3 is one of eight water-soluble B vitamins, also known as niacin or nicotinic acid, while niacinamide or nicotinamide is an amide form of vitamin B3. A lack of vitamin B3 can lead to disorders of the skin, kidneys and brain.
In skin care, products are often in the form of an amide that is niacinamide, they work to prevent water loss, retain moisture in the skin and increase keratin.
With the ability to inhibit 35-68% of the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Therefore, niacinamide has been shown to be an excellent treatment in skin pigmentation such as age spots, dark spots, and melasma in concentrations of 2% or more after 4 weeks of use. Besides, this is also an ingredient with fewer side effects and is safer than hydroquinone.
Arbutin
Arbutin, a natural derivative of hydroquinone, is said to be one of the best alternatives to hydroquinone for its skin-lightening effects without the risks. Arbutin has a brightening effect in conventional cosmetics in a synthetic form such as alpha arbutin or deoxyarbutin.
Arbutin’s skin lightening mechanism is to inhibit tyrosinase, an important enzyme involved in melanin (pigment) production. In addition to its inhibitory effect, arbutin may also act as a reserve for the gradual release of hydroquinone.
c) Anti-Aging Serum
Here are the anti-aging ingredients commonly found in anti-aging serum:
Retinoids
Retinoids are a group of compounds derived from vitamin A, commonly used in skin care. Retinoic is a form that works directly on the skin, but the potential for irritation is high, so the more conversions there are, the less effective the effect will be, in return for the skin irritation will decrease. Here is the metabolic potential of retinoic acid:
Retinyl palmitate => Retinol => Retinaldehyde => Retinoic acid
Retinoids fight aging by increasing collagen production, stimulating new blood vessel production thus can reduce the appearance of wrinkles after three to six months of regular use and best results come from month two. 6 to 12 months.
2. According to the dosage form
a) Water-based
Water-based, aka water-based in the beauty industry. These products in the formula contain a small amount of oil, the rest are moisturizing ingredients such as water (aqua), hyaluronic acid, glycerin or other humectants.
b) Oil-based form
It is a product containing only oil-soluble ingredients, creating a protective film, preventing frequent water loss of the epidermis, and is a good choice for people with dry, oily skin.
Regular oil-based serums contain a variety of fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamins E and A, shea butter, and plant extracts such as carotenoids and ceramides. Based on the ratio of oil: water in the formula, when mixed together, it will produce new forms such as essence, lotion, milk, ..
Benefits of serums
Each serum on the market will help with a specific skin problem, so the benefits will vary. Here are a few benefits of serums bring:
- Fast absorption: serums are gentler care formulations than creams, the thinner texture allows the serum to be absorbed more easily into the skin, so results are visible.
- Hydrate: Hydration is one of the key ingredients for maintaining beautiful skin. Ingredients such as vitamin E, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid can all provide significant moisture, keeping the skin fresh, young and healthy.
- Reduce wrinkles: as we age, the skin begins to lack substances such as elastin, ceramide, .. causing sagging, loss of elasticity, products containing ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol and hyaluronic acid can all be. help reduce these signs of aging.
- Smoothing and improving texture: hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and peptides can all help smooth and appear more beautiful.
- Provides antioxidant protection: these substances have the ability to fight environmental aggressors, slowing down the aging process of the skin. They are found in vitamin E, vitamin C, retinol, hyaluronic acid, and
- Minimizing the appearance of brown spots: melasma, age spots, dark spots, although not causing discomfort like acne, but it will be unsightly for each person. Some of the active ingredients that can help fade them and look more even with supplements include vitamin E, vitamin C, and retinol.
- Save money: if you invest in a good serum, you will see more results than other products, so avoid wasting money on many unsatisfactory products.
How to apply serum properly?
Depending on each person’s skin care needs and what serum you use how to use seurm difference.
Most of the time, if the serum is not affected by pH, it will be applied in a liquid to thick dosage form, on moist skin because at this time, the penetration capacity will be 10 times higher than dry skin. So if I use many different serums at the same time, what order will I apply?
At this point, you need to pay attention to the product pH that the manufacturer has noted, the lower the pH, the more it should be applied in the previous order to avoid affecting the quality of the product.
Here is a summary of how to suggest when applying serum in a simple skin care routine for you to read.
- Step 1: First, clean and exfoliate the skin.
- Step 2: Then use toner or facial spray.
- Step 3: Next, gently apply a small amount of serum to face and neck with fingertips or palms. Then, wait 2 minutes for the serum to be fully absorbed into the skin.
- Step 4: Finally, finish your skin care routine by applying your favorite moisturizer.
Note that there are some active ingredients in the product of each serum that should not be combined at the same time to avoid irritation such as BHA/AHA and retinoids, vitamins and retinoids, etc.
Conclude
Skin serums are products that have a light texture and contain a high concentration of active ingredients. There are many different serums available today, each focusing on a specific use, so listen to your own skin to choose the right serum.
